Erbazzone

Originally from Emilia, erbazzone is a savoury pie typical of the summer months. In its more basic form, it consists in a filling of mixed cooked greens enclosed in a thin, flaky crust. The crust, called fuiada, is traditionally made with lard (the fat of choice in the Emilia Romagna region), though olive oil is an acceptable replacement.

Silverbeet (chard) is normally used for the filling. Nothing is thrown away as both leaves and stalks make their way into the pie. Spinach or a mix of wild herbs can sometimes be part of the total volume, so as to mellow down the earthy notes of the beet.

As the simplicity of its ingredients might suggest, erbazzone is a dish of humble origins, apt at making the most of the host of greens grown in the region from June to September. In its original intent, it was meant to feed the large crowd of hungry fieldworkers busy in the seasonal harvest. But erbazzone is still very much in vogue today, and consumed as a snack, quick lunch or to as part of a picnic spread.

I make erbazzone on a regular basis – pretty much every time I have lots of greens on hand and want to make something other than the usual stir-fry. I normally opt for olive oil in the crust, but tend to include pancetta as well as grated Parmesan in the filling. That said, you can skip the meat and use cheese made with vegetable rennet for a vegetarian-friendly version.