Duck ragù with bigoli

Bigoli (Bigoi in dialect) is long pasta that is typical of Veneto. Depending on the area, it can be fresh or dry, wholemeal or white. People who owned a bigolaro (the specific pasta press used to extrude bigoli) used to make it at home; those living in the city would have had access to fresh bigoli from the deli. The rest had to make do with the dry version.

Bigoli con l'anara (with duck ragù) is a speciality of Vicenza and Padua. In Venice and thereabouts, one would be more likely to see this ragù spooned over a bowl of potato gnocchi or gnocchetti. Both are delightful, but for once, I betray my province of origin and favour Vicenza's version, mostly because I have eaten it so many times over day trips across the region and around the Colli Berici that it has become part of my culinary education.