Pomiroeu is steeped in food history, with a heritage that goes back far beyond the moment when Giancarlo Morelli took over the restaurant in 1993. The name has roots in a local word, pometo, which means apple orchard – a reference to Seregno’s long history of growing apples, and the Pomiroeu has been a restaurant since at least 1900, feeding the people of Seregno for over a century.

For the last twenty-five years, the restaurant has belonged to the brilliant, eccentric Giancarlo Morelli and his wife Alessandra, and although it lives a different life now compared to a century ago, it remains an important part of Seregno’s culinary fabric. Pomiroeu has held a Michelin star for many years now, but it still feels like an old neighbourhood restaurant in many ways. Until ten years ago, there was still an old lady living in the apartment upstairs, and she had to go through the restaurant every day to get to her house. ‘She was like part of the furniture,’ says Giancarlo.

Giancarlo was born and raised in Lombardy, and Pomiroeu is a demonstration of his passion for his home, using beautiful local produce to create seasonal menus that reflect the area and its traditions. The techniques and skill behind the food may be expert and complex, but the dishes at Pomiroeu stay extremely simple at their foundation – Giancarlo creates each of his dishes with just four or five major ingredients, and advocates the use of techniques like infusion, emulsification and toasting of spices to boost flavour. Alongside more complex combinations like beer-marinated duck breast with hops and white carrot, you’ll find classic dishes like Milanese-style breaded cutlet, and of course Giancarlo’s famous risottos – undoubtedly some of the best in the country.

The restaurant is a beautiful place in its own right too – Giancarlo and his team have given the whole place a wonderful relaxing feel. You can wander the halls and see the history of the building, as well as local artwork adorning the walls. It’s no wonder this has been one of Milan’s most popular restaurants for some time – Giancarlo’s cooking is already an unmissable spectacle, but at Pomiroeu it’s in the perfect setting.