Set just off Italy’s Mediterranean coast, we always consider Sicily to be a mere extension of Italy, but the island’s colourful history that has made it a real gastronomic melting pot of cultures, from the Mediterranean to North Africa. They say in Sicily that a lemon is not a lemon unless it is Sicilian – in fact, Sicilian lemons were originally Arabic. Aubergines – essential in Sicilian classics like caponata and pasta alla norma – also arrived courtesy of Arabic conquest. This is the complexity that makes Sicilian cuisine unique and special, and few restaurants display that like Duomo.

Ristorante Duomo has championed Sicilian food since the year 2000, when chef and owner Ciccio Sultano set up the restaurant. Born and raised in Sicily, Ciccio respects the history of Sicilian cuisine, but particularly loves the contradictions it throws up, and thrives on making unusual ingredients sing together. Rather than stripping back and simplifying, he builds layer upon layer of complexity into his dishes. ‘A dish creation is like a jazz improvisation,’ he says. ‘You can do it over and over again, but it will always mirror the emotions and moods of that particular moment.’

Dishes like his country chicken with corn espuma and rice crisps, and ricotta cannoli with warm prickly pear soup and pizzuta almond sorbet are perfect examples of his avant-garde streak and theatrical plating. Even spaghetti with bottarga – as classic and simple as you can find in Sicily – looks like the work of an artist.

The wine list also stays true to the island, with a vast array of wines from Sicily and Mount Etna, accompanied by a solid range of European and New World varieties.

Under Ciccio’s stewardship, Duomo’s status has risen dramatically, In 2004, the restaurant earned its first Michelin star, adding a second just two years later, and becoming widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in Sicily.