Tuscan pigeon with carrot and chocolate sauce, mushroom risotto and foie gras

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Francesco Bracali's pigeon recipe is reminiscent of the scent of the Tuscan hills, with a fragrant blend of rosemary, thyme, lemon and garlic. Cooking the pigeon legs and breasts in different ways ensures the meat achieves the skin yet remains perfectly tender, while the addition of mushroom risotto, poached foie gras, and carrot and chocolate sauce to the finished dish adds extra dimensions of flavour and texture.

First published in 2016

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Pigeon

  • 4 pigeons
  • 4 sage leaves
  • 3 sprigs of rosemary
  • 1 garlic clove, sliced
  • 50ml of olive oil, plus extra for frying
  • salt
  • freshly ground black pepper

Tuscan herb blend

  • 1/2 white onion, finely sliced
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 lemon, zested
  • 1 tbsp of capers, rinsed
  • 3 sprigs of rosemary
  • 3 sprigs of thyme

Foie gras

  • 400g of foie gras
  • 200ml of Sauternes wine
  • 200ml of milk, cold, plus extra as needed
  • 70g of raisins, finely chopped
  • 70g of hazelnuts, finely chopped
  • 70g of pistachio nuts, finely chopped
  • 1l water
  • 1 tbsp of coarse sea salt

Polenta chips

  • 150g of polenta
  • 5 tsp black sesame seeds
  • 400g of water
  • vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Mushroom risotto

  • 100g of risotto rice
  • 100g of assorted fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 100ml of white wine
  • 335g of vegetable stock
  • 4g of salt
  • 1 tsp chopped rosemary
  • 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
  • freshly ground black pepper

Carrot and chocolate sauce

  • 200g of carrots, sliced
  • 1 tbsp of dark chocolate
  • 2 shallots, finely sliced
  • 20g of white wine
  • 250ml of vegetable stock
  • 100g of cream
  • 20g of grated Parmesan
  • 1 dash of olive oil
  • salt
  • freshly ground black pepper

To serve

  • 1 carrot
  • 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp of balsamic vinegar
  • baby coriander leaves
  • flower petals

Equipment

  • Dehydrator
  • Blender
  • Thermometer
  • Vacuum bags
  • Chamber sealer
  • Water bath
  • Deep-fryer

Method

1
Prepare the Tuscan herb blend the day before serving. Spread out the onion, garlic, lemon zest, capers, and herbs across a tray and dry out overnight in a dehydrator set to 60°C
  • 1/2 white onion, finely sliced
  • 3 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 lemon, zested
  • 1 tbsp of capers, rinsed
  • 3 sprigs of rosemary
  • 3 sprigs of thyme
2
At the same time, make small incisions in the foie gras and place in a bowl. Cover with the Sauternes and cold milk – topping up with extra milk if needed to fully cover – and leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hour
  • 400g of foie gras
  • 200ml of Sauternes wine
  • 200ml of milk, cold, plus extra as needed
3
After this time, drain the foie gras and remove the tough veins with a small, sharp knife. Cut into thin slices and lay out in single layer across a clean cloth
4
Sprinkle over the chopped raisins and nuts in an even layer, then roll up the cloth to create a tight cylinder or sausage-shape. Secure the cloth in place with string, tying both ends like a salami to ensure the filling is sealed inside
  • 70g of raisins, finely chopped
  • 70g of hazelnuts, finely chopped
  • 70g of pistachio nuts, finely chopped
5
Place the foie gras roll in a large pan and cover with the water. Stir in the salt and gently cook for 25 minutes, taking care not to let the water boil (the water should not exceed 70°C). Drain the foie gras roll, then transfer to the fridge and leave to set overnight
  • 1l water
  • 1 tbsp of coarse sea salt
6
The following morning, transfer the dried flavourings to a blender or spice grinder and blitz to form a powder. Transfer to an airtight container and set aside until needed
7
Preheat a water bath to 70°C
8
Prepare the pigeons by removing the legs and setting aside, then cutting the breasts away from the bone. Separate the mini fillets from the main piece of breast and reserve both in the fridge until just before serving
9
Remove the thigh bones from the legs, season well with salt and pepper and place in a vacuum bag with the sage leaves, rosemary and sliced garlic. Add 50ml of oil, seal and cook for 8 hours in the water bath
  • 4 sage leaves
  • 3 sprigs of rosemary
  • 1 garlic clove, sliced
  • 50ml of olive oil, plus extra for frying
  • salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
10
Meanwhile, make the polenta chips. Mix everything together in a bowl to form a thick paste. Spread 4 spoonfuls out across a silicone baking mat (or a tray lined with baking paper) to a thickness of 2mm, then place in a dehydrator set to 65°C for 2 hours to dry out completely
  • 150g of polenta
  • 5 tsp black sesame seeds
  • 400g of water
11
Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4
12
For the risotto, heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large pan with the bay leaf and salt. Add the rice to the pan and stir gently, allowing to toast lightly in the oil. Deglaze the pan with the white wine, add the stock and transfer to the oven for 14 minutes
  • 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to taste
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 4g of salt
  • 100g of risotto rice
  • 100ml of white wine
  • 335g of vegetable stock
13
Meanwhile, add a drizzle of oil to a pan and sauté the mixed mushrooms over a medium heat to soften. Stir in the chopped rosemary and season to taste with a little more salt and pepper. When the rice is cooked through, stir in the mushrooms until combined and set aside until ready to serve
14
To make the carrot and chocolate sauce, add a dash of oil to a pan and place over a medium heat. Gently sauté the sliced shallots for a few minutes to soften, then deglaze the pan with the white wine and cook until evaporated
  • 1 dash of olive oil
  • 2 shallots, finely sliced
  • 20g of white wine
15
Stir in the carrots, then cover with the vegetable stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5–10 minutes until the carrots are tender, then remove the pan from the heat
  • 200g of carrots, sliced
  • 250ml of vegetable stock
16
Stir in the cream, Parmesan and chocolate and allow to melt in the residual heat, stirring to combine. Transfer to a blender and blitz to form a smooth sauce, then season to taste and transfer to a clean pan, keeping warm until ready to serve
17
Before serving, remove the pigeon breasts and mini fillets from the fridge. Weigh out 30g of the Tuscan herb blend and rub over the pigeon breasts, setting aside to marinate for 15 minutes
18
Preheat a deep-fryer with the vegetable oil
19
Meanwhile, finish the polenta crisps. Break the crisps into pieces and fry in the hot oil until puffed up and golden. Drain the excess oil on kitchen paper and set aside until ready to serve
  • vegetable oil, for deep-frying
20
Finely dice the pigeon mini fillets to create a tartare, seasoning with a pinch of the remaining Tuscan herb blend. Meanwhile, warm through the reserved risotto and the carrot and chocolate sauce over a gentle heat
21
To cook the pigeon breasts, place a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Season the breasts with salt and fry, skin-side down, for a few minutes. Once golden, flip over and finish cooking for a minute on the other side. Set aside to rest
  • salt
22
Remove the cooked thighs from the vacuum bag and crisp up the skin in the hot pan or under a hot grill if preferred
23
Unroll the set foie gras and cut into 1cm slices. For the garnish, slice the carrot lengthways into 4 thin slices then cut into the shapes of carrots. Whisk together the extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar to make a dressing
  • 1 carrot
  • 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tbsp of balsamic vinegar
24
To serve, place a slice of the foie gras on each plate and top with a quenelle of pigeon tartare. Add a quenelle of the mushroom risotto, then divide the pigeon breasts and thighs between the plates and spread across a spoonful of the carrot sauce. Garnish with the polenta crisps, carrot shape, edible flowers and a drizzle of dressing

Discover more about this region's cuisine:

From eating bread and ragù as a child to running a two-starred restaurant in Tuscany, Francesco Bracali has stayed true to the area's local flavours and has helped bolster the region's already famous foodie credentials.

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