'Don't take the bone away from Mario' – veal bone marrow and tartare

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Viviana Varese honours the traditional Milanese dish osso buco in her veal recipe. Keeping the bone as the focal point, Viviana swaps the classic veal shin for bone marrow, which is topped with delicate tartare of veal onglet and fillet. Finished with rich mustard mayonnaise and delicate vinegar snow, one taste of this dish and you'll be fighting 'Mario' for the bone . . .

First published in 2016

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Veal

  • 2 bone marrow, halved
  • 200g of veal, onglet
  • 200g of veal, fillet
  • 40g of extra virgin olive oil
  • salt

Mustard mayonnaise

Vinegar snow

  • 15g of maltodextrin
  • 6g of black rice vinegar

To serve

  • 1 large spring onion, sliced into 1cm rings
  • daikon cress, to garnish

Equipment

  • Spice grinder
  • Electric hand whisk
  • Piping bags

Method

1
Begin by making the mustard mayonnaise. Blend the mustard seeds in a spice grinder (or by hand in a pestle and mortar) to form a powder. Set aside
  • 25g of mustard seeds
2
Whisk together the egg yolk and lemon juice in a bowl and drizzle in the sunflower oil, whisking continuously, until the mayonnaise thickens and emulsifies. Whisk in the mustard powder and season with a little salt to taste. Reserve in a piping bag until serving
3
For the vinegar snow, place the maltodextrin in a bowl and mix in the vinegar to create a powder. Push the mixture through a fine sieve into a clean bowl to create a 'snow' and set aside until required
  • 15g of maltodextrin
  • 6g of black rice vinegar
4
Preheat a barbecue or grill. Place the bone marrow halves marrow-side down on the grill and cook for 4 minutes, then turn over and cook for another 6 minutes on the bone side
  • 2 bone marrow, halved
5
Meanwhile, sear the onglet very quickly on the grill to lightly colour the outside. Remove from the heat and dice into a coarse tartare. Dice the fillet into similar sized pieces, keeping both cuts separate. Season both tartares with a little extra virgin olive oil and salt
  • 200g of veal, onglet
  • 200g of veal, onglet
  • 40g of extra virgin olive oil
  • salt
6
Blanch the spring onion slices very briefly (about 10 seconds) in boiling water, either in a small pan or by pouring over water from the kettle. Drain and cool immediately in a bowl of iced water
  • 1 large spring onion, sliced into 1cm rings
7
To serve, place a bone marrow half on each serving plate with the marrow on top. Alternate spoonfuls of the onglet and fillet tartare across the top then pipe on a few dots of the mustard mayonnaise
8
Sprinkle over a little of the vinegar snow, garnishing with the spring onion slices and a few daikon cress leaves to serve
  • daikon cress, to garnish
First published in 2016

Becoming one of the most famous chefs in Milan (and, after starring in her own television show, all of Italy) isn't easy, but Viviana Varese remains at the top of her game by sourcing the very best produce available.

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