Gaetano Trovato places regional ingredients of the highest possible quality at the centre of his cuisine, crafting modern dishes with respect for the great culinary traditions of Italy. The restaurant he has built with his brother Giovanni and other family members has been awarded two Michelin stars and is considered one of Tuscany’s top dining destinations
Gaetano Trovato grew up in Scicli on the island of Sicily, inspired by the fresh ingredients he enjoyed throughout his childhood from his family’s farms in Sicily and Tuscany. He told us: ‘I was strongly influenced by my family. I come from Sicily and my roots are strong. There is a long tradition of great taste in our region. My family always used products that came directly from our farms, so I've known these powerful flavours since I was a child – beautiful, colourful flavours that followed the sequence of the seasons.’
His passion for food and flavour, was evident even in adolescence and his talent and creativity spurred him to cook professionally. Starting his career as an apprentice in Saint-Moritz in Switzerland, he went on to work with some of the best chefs in Europe; at Locanda dell’Angelo in Ameglia on the north-west coast of Italy, training under Angelo Paracucchi, then with Roger Vergé at Le Moulin de Mougins in Paris, and lastly with the legendary pastry chef, Gaston Lenôtre. He says of these experiences: ‘I started when I was young and I worked in Italy and abroad. My concept, my philosophy of cuisine, is a combination of my experiences. They are merged in a way that surprises ourselves and our guests – my cuisine has evolved.’
In 1982 he returned to Tuscany, to the town of Colle di Val d’Elsa and opened Arnolfo Ristorante, together with his mother Concetta and his sister Allesandra. His brother Giovanni joined the restaurant in 1989 after his own time abroad; all three siblings continue to work together at the restaurant today. Aged just twenty-five years old, Gaetano Trovato was awarded his first Michelin star, an experience he says motivated him to continue, to improve.
At Arnolfo Ristorante, Gaetano Trovato showcases the authentic flavours of the Crete Senesi, the Tuscan region south of Siena. He told us: ‘There has been great evolution in traditional cuisine in Italy in the past twenty years, through the south, the islands and up the whole peninsula. Always paying attention to safeguarding quality products, but most of all highlighting the taste, the flavours, the memorable Mediterranean flavours.’
In keeping with this philosophy, Gaetano Trovato is driven to secure the very best quality ingredients for his restaurant, using small, organic farmers from the surrounding area. He told us: ‘You have to be respectful and make the most of the territory in which you live. I must be moved emotionally when I go to select raw materials. The evolution of flavour always comes from choosing the products from the market, our local products. These products are the inspiration – it’s essential to respect the raw materials. From there the dish is constructed, like with an architectural project – it evolves. Nowadays, we prepare these ingredients in a more modern way. We are more careful with how we cook them – the digestibility, the range of colours – but the taste must prevail. We are making contemporary cuisine, of course, but always with great flavours. This is the backbone of Mediterranean cuisine and is central to the evolution of Italian cuisine.’ Showcasing these local ingredients is very much a feature of his menus, with dishes such as Goat from the Crete Senesi with Morelli artichokes and root vegetables, Chicken from Valdarno, smoked potato cream and black truffle, Local pigeon with pistachios and caramelised onions and Tortelli, Cinta Senese pork, leeks, asparagus and liquorice using unique regional ingredients.
Lightness, freshness and flavour are words often used to describe Gaetano Trovato’s food, with menus that change with the passing seasons. Two tasting menus are offered at the restaurant, in addition to à la carte: Territorio e Ricerca is exclusively traditional Italian cuisine, with plates such as Ravioli with artichoke, pecorino and thyme and Mediterranean rabbit (an old family recipe). Il Menu Conteporany Moment di Gaetano Trovato proposes more modern techniques and combinations, such as Scallops with candied tomatoes, pea cream, ginger, lemongrass and burrata and Cuttlefish roll, roasted prawn and prawn wafer with seaweed. Dessert could be Chocolate mousse, mango, passionfruit and salted caramel gelato or Zuccotto with coffee, zabaione, star anise ice cream and chocolate.
After spending years building his own restaurant into one of Tuscany’s most loved culinary destinations, we asked him what was next: ‘My goal is to convey emotions today as yesterday, to my clients, to educate my young disciples and instil an appreciation of quality. I dream of creating a place where people can train, where I can teach a dynamic formula of modern cuisine for a younger audience and continue to make haute cuisine – by merging the two businesses under one roof.’